St Kilda has long been an iconic destination for Melburnians to visit and let their hair down after dark. Today, its reputation as party central has reached the pages of backpacker zines and blogs worldwide. A victim of its own popularity, many of the famed haunts have disappeared, replaced by fast food chains, beer bars and hostels. Scratch the surface though, and you’ll find a thriving small-bar scene that locals like to claim as their own and where barely a backpacker has ever ventured. As a long-time St Kilda resident, here are my top five secret bars that resonate a sense of the real St Kilda – places where the locals find refuge from soccer anthems and gimmicky theme nights.
Ciciolina Back Bar
Still St Kilda’s best kept little secret, the ‘Back Bar’ is a favourite amongst favourites for a growing band of loyal devotees. Bordello-like in its presentation, with high backed, black clad horseshoe booths, very low lighting, quirky decor and a rather unceremonious no-name side entrance, the Back Bar feels like an old speakeasy. When it’s really busy, it’s fabulous, but when it’s empty, it’s even better – like a secret discovery that everyone else is yet to find – a dark nook where you can imagine clandestine couplings and hushed negotiations taking place, a world away from the tourist-driven madness of Acland Street.
Where? Rear, 130 Acland St, St Kilda
#espressomartini time @ciccstkilda pic.twitter.com/K7EK0IrLCm
— FMDUC (@FMDUC) March 1, 2015
Mr Wolf Side Bar
Mr Wolf was one of the first ‘gourmet’ pizza restaurants to enliven Melbourne’s foodie scene and set the pace for the wave that followed. The place has proven to be a stayer, so much so, that a small bar next door has opened to contain the overflow from the restaurant. Although within spitting distance of one of St Kilda’s rowdiest backpacker palaces, the Mr. Wolf side bar has remained true to the cool bespoke roots, which afforded its original and ongoing success. Its simple, sophisticated St Kilda style puts it on the must-visit list for and small-bar crawl through St Kilda.
Where? 9-15 Inkerman St, St Kilda.
Regram from @karen_martini & on the menu tonight… salt-baked beets, pickled garlic, bresaola, goats curd & house candied walnuts #yum A photo posted by mr. wolf (@mrwolf_pizza) on
Mirka at Tolarno
Off to the side of Fitzroy Street’s Tolarno Hotel is a little bar that, in tandem with the restaurant across the hall, not only services the hotel guests, but also acts as a haven for locals feeling the need to escape the madness of Fitzroy Street. Under the stewardship of one of Melbourne’s hospitality barons, Guy Grossi, Mirka sits at the high end of St Kilda bars. Its Italian inspired flavour is perfect for aperitivo e cicchetti or something more substantial. What makes this place even more special are the painted and plaster murals that adorn the walls of both bar and restaurant by Melbourne living treasure, artist and St Kilda resident, Mirka Mora, the bar’s namesake.
Where? 42 Fitzroy Street, St Kilda.
Rubygils
There’s a little hole in the wall just around the corner from Acland Street, in Barkly Street, that houses St Kilda’s only live jazz acts – and quite lively acts they are! Sardined in amongst the piano, trumpets, bass and sax are local lovers of jazz and jive. Drinks flow in abundance from the bar and fresh oysters from the neighbouring seafood restaurant, Claypots, provide snacking sustenance between bouts of dancing, with a different vibe served up every night.
Where? 213 Barkly Street, St Kilda.
Graze on Grey
Despite its location on St Kilda’s notorious Grey St, Graze on Grey remains relatively untouched by the street life that ambles its way past its Dickensian-styled facade. The hostel dwellers who hover around Grey Street don’t seem to notice that behind that facade is a cute little bar with a great cocktail list and a range of excellent share-plate bar snacks. Friday nights are especially boisterous as the cocktails are offered at $10 each but you’ll find a more laid back approach on other nights.
Where? 103 Grey St, St Kilda.
To make the most of your night out in St Kilda, amble along the retail and hospitality strips of Fitzroy and Acland Streets. In addition to plenty of watering holes, there’s an abundance of cafes and restaurants to make a night of it!
(Feature image: bradmcs. Cheap flights to Melbourne image by Jorge Láscar.)
